Six bicyclists, including ourselves, occupied the free campgrounds for bike travelers at London, OH…
…this evening. Supporters of the trail here have taken a lead on supporting users of the trail with this clean and accessible facility. This campground is located directly alongside the trail, part of an extensive paved rail trail network in Ohio.
Today’s route took us directly through Columbus, Ohio — a sizable city with availability of all things we find scarce in and between small towns. Stops at REI and Costco allowed us to replenish necessities and luxuries of our bicycle quest. The bike route through Columbus is somewhat complex, owing in part to a web of bike trails that keep us off of city streets an unusual (and welcome) amount for the size of this metro area.
Judging from comments from locals, the temperature/humidity combination is remaining unusually high for an extended period, and that does lead us to nap more and bike slower. We arrive at our campground near Mount Vernon ready to eat, clean up, and sleep. We forgo our somewhat normal beer-stop in favor of more rest.
This morning appeared with clear skies overhead and a mix of lingering humidity from the night and smoke from public and private fireworks, and campfires. We steeled ourselves for another hot one. Ohio has a well established network of rails to trails. It seems that each town, city, or county takes pride in the section that runs through their community. Right out of the gate we hopped on a paved trail and made good progress.
Hazy morning ride but with good shade
We saw locals getting in their morning ride or walk before the full heat of the day. Next way point Dayton.
We entered Dayton on some major roads that, fortunately were very lightly traveled on an early Saturday morning. These roads did present serious pothole hazards. See example below.
I rescued 3 small children from one large pothole I almost fell into myself. They said they’d been in there since yesterday afternoon. I gave them some meager snacks and water then they ran home. The urgency of the situation prevented me from getting any photos.
Dayton is at the confluence of the Miami and Mad rivers and some of the bike trails take you along the river on the river side of the levee. This makes for interesting riding as one dodges what the river last deposited on the trail.
On the riverside Bob and Colin crossing an “underwater” bridge”
After deftly navigating Dayton we made for Xenia, a connecting hub for several trails. Before going further Colin made good (as he always does) on our well earned “state line beer”.
Devil Wind Brewing in Xenia, OH
Before going into the brewery Bob and Colin assessed that the noise coming from Bob’s bike was a broken spoke. We decided that what to do about said spoke would be best considered inside an air conditioned brewery with a cold beverage in hand. The good folks at the brewery recommended a nearby bike shop so it was one and done and we were on our way. The broken spoke turned into a cracked rim which meant a new wheel. The folks at K&G Bike Center had Bob back in good shape quickly. Again on our way.
Xenia was crisscrossed with Adventure Cycling Association routes
Next stop was London and while not far, the heat of the day was in full force and the trail layout and direction of travel brought in lots of sunshine.
After a long day we made to a camp in London reserved for trail users, i.e., us. It’s a great spot with an outdoor shower, shelter, bathrooms, and lots of places to pitch your tent. Jim with Friends of Madison County Parks and Trails is the unofficial guardian of the park. He met us and explained the rules. He also endorsed our best guess for dinner. He showed up later to give us the updated password for the WiFi at the campsite. He’s truly dedicated to the trail and his community.
With Jim at the Mad Cow
Trivia of the day; We learned that London is the only place where Brillo pads are manufactured.
After our long day yesterday, recognizing that we didn’t want to be out riding in 4th of July traffic, and since we were having trouble finding a suitably located campsite, we decided to stay put at yesterday’s camp and have a rest day. But as I was counting new mosquito bites this morning, Bob asked, “Could you check KOA and see if there’s been a cancellation?”. There was one space so after a quick vote we decided we would flee the mosquitoes, ride 31 or 32 miles, be finished by lunchtime.
The rules were too tough, we had to move on
We had been lounging so we got a late start, compounded by the discovery of a flat tire on my bike. I replaced my tube while Bob checked the flat tube thoroughly, found no problems and pronounced it good. We’re puzzled (I found no offending items in the tire either). Steve suspects sabotage. Other possibilites proffered by Bob were deemed even more unlikely. I’ll sleep with one eye open tonight.
Great conditions for flat fixing.
Bob has been carrying small American flags as bike decorations for today. We attached them to our bikes and, after a safety officer inspection and repositioning, we took off.
Only 2 miles after setting out we found our way into Ohio. It was just like Indiana with lots of farmland.
Bob riding through Ohian farmlandSteve and Bob sporting their patriotic flags on this July 4thSteve in awe again, this time at a combine harvester
In recent days, Steve and I have had various in-depth discussions about the relative merits of hay versus silage and the production methods thereof. So we were all interested to see a friendly Amish farmer turning his hay with two horses pulling an ancient but recognizably similar version of what we’d seen huge tractors pulling in previous days. He gave us a friendly wave.
We continued on mostly flat, good quality roads looking for a lunchtime beverage on our short route.
More nice flat roads between crops
It was so nice that we weren’t too surprised to find ourselves on bicycle route 50.
There were some interesting/inspiring yard decorations along the way…
… and we were relieved to eventually find an excellent ice cream shop where we started our late lunch.
Highlight of the daySteve wished he’d ordered a large shake The knots and crosses game was a draw
Satiated for a moment, we crossed the street to a Mexican restaurant and enjoyed an entree after our dessert (I’ve been known to promote this practice).
It was a hot day again. So after picking up supplies at a supermarket, and before heading the final 3 miles to the campground, we enjoyed a Coors Light, discreetly, under a tree in the parking lot.
The KOA is full of happy revelers. Most of them have campfires so the air is thick with smoke. Our campsite is off at the extremities and quite satisfactory.
Plenty of space for Steve’s tent when he eventually gets around to pitching it.
There are fewer mosquitoes here, perhaps deterred by the campfire smoke, but they have started biting so it’s time to retreat to the tents.
We’ll be on the road early tomorrow, back on rails to trails conversions, heading for London, Ohio.
The ride itself today was relatively straightforward, mostly on roads and paths that seemed made for cycling. I suppose the paths WERE made for cycling, when converted from the Pennsylvania Rail line.
There are some noteworthy things about the miles and the date:
> It was the longest bike ride of Steve’s life.
> We passed 3000 total miles.
> 44 years ago my wife Shirley and I were married on July 3.
> We departed from a night in a hotel for the first time during our whole trip. Beds are nice, as is ready made breakfast.
> I visited Richmond, IN several times in the ‘80s when it was the headquarters for my employer of the time. I remembered it to be a nice town. Today it is the smallest town where we have found and ridden dedicated mosaic brick bike paths through downtown.
As we departed Indianapolis we enjoyed a loop around this European-style structure that highlights downtown Indianapolis.
Outdoor temperatures returned to the 90s for some of the day. This, and carrying everything we need, makes it feel like a century ride or more.
Easing the struggle were drivers as courteous and dogs as friendly as we have met anywhere.
Downtown Richmond Indiana Bike Path
The sound of fireworks slowly built during the day. It seems one commercial show was not far from camp as the day ended. I think this happens when pyrotechnic display operators get overbooked on the 4th.
Winner if Bob’s Lawn Ornament Award
Dinner tonight was simple, though excellent: Brats with gouda cheese and julienne red peppers on buns, pasta salad and a chopped leafy vegetable salad.
Our July 4 ride is expected to be very short, as we intend to stay off the roads and enjoy the holiday. Nevertheless, we may touch Ohio, which is about 2 miles away.
After a relatively cool night we awoke to sunny skies and pleasant temperatures. An earlier strategy session determined that a motel in Indianapolis maximized what was needed in terms of easterly progress, moderate distance, and value. So our crack navigation team of Arnold and Farrell went to work with their phones and apps and ouija boards to detect/decipher/divine a suitable route from rural Indiana to the heart of Indianapolis.
Much of the route included in our beloved rails to trails (with a crushed limestone finish)
Happiness is shade on a hot summer’s day Happiness is being on the receiving end of strangers’ generosity. Thank you Joy and BillHappiness is being on the receiving end of people’s investment in the health and happiness of their communities. Thank you to the people of Putnam County.
Down the road we stopped for lunch.
Colin showing Bob how to field dress a bevy of wild Indiana bagels
We pressed on towards the city.
Happiness is riding with friends on a nice trail with a tail wind. Downtown Indianapolis Happiness is shelter
View from our “camping spot”
Happiness is a good day on the trail. More tomorrow.
We woke up to a damp campsite this morning and we all commented on the overnight rain; it was pretty heavy at times. Since the laundry we had hung hopefully before going to bed was now dripping wet again we took a leisurely approach to getting going while we tried, and failed, to dry it some more.
By about 9:30 we set out on beautiful roads through the flat farmland of eastern Illinois…
…and before too long we became suspicious that we were in Indiana. And we were, so we have no official state line crossing photo. Soon enough we found ourselves at a sign identifying the Wabashiki Fish and Wildlife Area, managed by the Indiana department of natural resources. Confusingly, this area is huge and we came across many other signs indicating the same thing.
We picked up lunch in West Terre Haute and stopped under a ramada overlooking more of the Wabashiki area. Alas, our bagels were pretty terrible. First, it was a bag of five, which makes the division difficult, then they were pretty stale, despite the Aug 26th best-by date. Good cream cheese hides many ills, but it did little to revive these bagels 😕
Eating miserably stale bagels
Immediately after lunch we got our first experience of Indiana bike trails. This one ran from West Terra Haute to Terra Haute (proper).
We found another nice trail that ran through Terra Haute and about 6 miles beyond, then we were stuck on HWY 40 for about 20 miles.
It had 4 lanes and decent shoulders so it’s not the worst road we’ve encountered, but we were ready to be finished with it as we got closer to our destination, the Cloverdale KOA.
Alas, there were basically no services on the way here so we got set up and ordered a pizza. There was no delivery option so a 3.5 mile round trip was required to pick it up.
Our route planning discussion started over pizza, moved to the laundry room and back, and terminated with a decision to sleep in and sleep on it. All reasonable options put us squarely in the middle of Indianapolis tomorrow, where camping is understandably scarce. So we either go short, or long, or spend a night in a hotel. Tune in tomorrow to see how it works out 😉
Finally, we lost another hour today, so we are now 3 hours ahead of our families back in Seattle.
Today’s journey started in a wooded lakeside park, and ended in one as well. Much of the travel between these lakes was along Highway 40 eastbound, using more scenic and quiet side roads whenever possible.
Breakfast was bananas, peanut butter and tortillas at Lake Sara. Lunch included bagels and cream cheese in Greenup, IL.
A big dog along the road insisted on a big sloppy kiss and an ear scratch before allowing Steve to proceed.
Casey Illinois was an exiting stop where many large things can been seen and/or played upon. These include the world’s largest mailbox, wind chime, tetertoddler, rocking chair and many more large things. We didn’t see them all, though we visited many, and Colin actually mailed real postcards from the World’s largest mailbox.
We also had some great ice cream and shakes while in town.
A few miles down the road my chain broke. For the first time that I can recall I was able to make repairs while laying down next to my bike in soft grass. It was most pleasant. We were back on our way with little delay and with surprising efficiency.
After arriving in camp and setting up the basics, Colin switched into superhero mode and biked to a nearby town to fetch beers for the evening. This is our celebratory Illinois beer, which he concluded we had to have before reaching Indiana.
While Colin made the 11+ mile round trip, I improvised a meal with on-hand ingredients in game show fashion.
Upon Collin’s return, we enjoyed lager-braised elk sausage, with pannier-aged apple wood smoked white cheddar cheese and Greenup tableau courgette, served on a rolled Chicago-style flatbread with a snappy vinegar-based pepper sauce. And beer!
