When waking at camp, we we read news reports of flash flooding and extreme rainfall that we travelled through yesterday. The bugs at camp have been relentless. The weather forecast for today is not much different than the wet day before. We booked a hotel room at our expected destination, a conservative distance away.
We were then met by a beautiful day from beginning to end. While the C&O trail has rough patches on this segment, it is certainly a trail anyone can navigate.
Harper’s Ferry is a unique town that I have now visited twice. Over the 15 years since I first visited, I forgot that the fully loaded bicycles need to travel up and down a spiral staircase and across an old railway bridge spanning the Potomac river. This was fun exercise that enabled us to have good food and beer good food, beer and ice cream.
Back on the path, a snake hurries to get out of our way
None of us complained that we didn’t get rained on all day. It was about 90 degrees and humid though, and the comforts of a Holiday Inn are most welcome.
We started the day along side the Youghiogheny River. Please do not ask me to pronounce that. Scenery along today’s route was pristine.
One of several fly fishermen in the river alongside our camp. Peacock in a tree. I thought I heard peacocks.
Lunch was in Meyersdale (said to be the maple syrup capital of Pennsylvania) at Donges Drive-In and Motel. The waitress asked Steve if he wanted fake syrup or real syrup with his French toast. It was through that exchange that we learned that the restaurant owner made the syrup, and that Centerville is the maple epicenter.
Today we passed over the Eastern Continental Divide, and with it a long steady downhill run glided us into Cumberland. The timing for this long downhill could not be more welcome, as my chain broke yet again, and our collective spares are not infinite. I would coast all the way to the Atlantic Ocean if I could. The big climbs are pretty much over, so things should be fine.
We coasted into yet another state, and received yet another reward beer from Colin. This beer for biking thing is great work if you can find it. At the Dig Deep Brewery we met up with two of Steve’s very long-time friends, watched a big thunderstorm develop, and made plans to all ride together on Sunday.
Camp was set up at the Cumberland YMCA after the storm passed. We located the tents within the covered pavilion, just in case…
We are closing in on Pittsburgh, and with that comes the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) bike path. In our desire to get within one day’s travel distance of the GAP , we charted a course of about 70 miles, knowing the first half would be hilly, and the second half flat.
What we did not know was that the day would include:
> a fair amount of loose gravel and rocks
> a long, steep decent down a steep, rocky, washed-out “road”
> an even steeper 475 foot climb, locally called Dawson Climb, that summits at a grave yard where one cyclist was reported to just stay and camp after the climb (hopefully not permanently)
> an impromptu front porch party with some locals that was entirely too short, which included some of the best lasagna I have ever had
> a welcome beer in West Virginia
> a very welcome beer in Pennsylvania
> three flat tires for Colin
> 3678 feet of climbing
> extended and confused pathfinding at the junction between the Panhandle bike trail and the Montour bike trail
The host for the lasagna party recently lost a favorite pet. He shared photos, and I have included two of them here. His convenience store bares the bear’s name.
This was the first time that we arrived at camp well after dark, and we arrived safe, very tired, though in good spirits. The root cause of two flats remains unknown, so we shall see what the next day brings.
Six bicyclists, including ourselves, occupied the free campgrounds for bike travelers at London, OH…
…this evening. Supporters of the trail here have taken a lead on supporting users of the trail with this clean and accessible facility. This campground is located directly alongside the trail, part of an extensive paved rail trail network in Ohio.
Today’s route took us directly through Columbus, Ohio — a sizable city with availability of all things we find scarce in and between small towns. Stops at REI and Costco allowed us to replenish necessities and luxuries of our bicycle quest. The bike route through Columbus is somewhat complex, owing in part to a web of bike trails that keep us off of city streets an unusual (and welcome) amount for the size of this metro area.
Judging from comments from locals, the temperature/humidity combination is remaining unusually high for an extended period, and that does lead us to nap more and bike slower. We arrive at our campground near Mount Vernon ready to eat, clean up, and sleep. We forgo our somewhat normal beer-stop in favor of more rest.
The ride itself today was relatively straightforward, mostly on roads and paths that seemed made for cycling. I suppose the paths WERE made for cycling, when converted from the Pennsylvania Rail line.
There are some noteworthy things about the miles and the date:
> It was the longest bike ride of Steve’s life.
> We passed 3000 total miles.
> 44 years ago my wife Shirley and I were married on July 3.
> We departed from a night in a hotel for the first time during our whole trip. Beds are nice, as is ready made breakfast.
> I visited Richmond, IN several times in the ‘80s when it was the headquarters for my employer of the time. I remembered it to be a nice town. Today it is the smallest town where we have found and ridden dedicated mosaic brick bike paths through downtown.
As we departed Indianapolis we enjoyed a loop around this European-style structure that highlights downtown Indianapolis.
Outdoor temperatures returned to the 90s for some of the day. This, and carrying everything we need, makes it feel like a century ride or more.
Easing the struggle were drivers as courteous and dogs as friendly as we have met anywhere.
Downtown Richmond Indiana Bike Path
The sound of fireworks slowly built during the day. It seems one commercial show was not far from camp as the day ended. I think this happens when pyrotechnic display operators get overbooked on the 4th.
Winner if Bob’s Lawn Ornament Award
Dinner tonight was simple, though excellent: Brats with gouda cheese and julienne red peppers on buns, pasta salad and a chopped leafy vegetable salad.
Our July 4 ride is expected to be very short, as we intend to stay off the roads and enjoy the holiday. Nevertheless, we may touch Ohio, which is about 2 miles away.
Today’s journey started in a wooded lakeside park, and ended in one as well. Much of the travel between these lakes was along Highway 40 eastbound, using more scenic and quiet side roads whenever possible.
Breakfast was bananas, peanut butter and tortillas at Lake Sara. Lunch included bagels and cream cheese in Greenup, IL.
A big dog along the road insisted on a big sloppy kiss and an ear scratch before allowing Steve to proceed.
Casey Illinois was an exiting stop where many large things can been seen and/or played upon. These include the world’s largest mailbox, wind chime, tetertoddler, rocking chair and many more large things. We didn’t see them all, though we visited many, and Colin actually mailed real postcards from the World’s largest mailbox.
We also had some great ice cream and shakes while in town.
A few miles down the road my chain broke. For the first time that I can recall I was able to make repairs while laying down next to my bike in soft grass. It was most pleasant. We were back on our way with little delay and with surprising efficiency.
After arriving in camp and setting up the basics, Colin switched into superhero mode and biked to a nearby town to fetch beers for the evening. This is our celebratory Illinois beer, which he concluded we had to have before reaching Indiana.
While Colin made the 11+ mile round trip, I improvised a meal with on-hand ingredients in game show fashion.
Upon Collin’s return, we enjoyed lager-braised elk sausage, with pannier-aged apple wood smoked white cheddar cheese and Greenup tableau courgette, served on a rolled Chicago-style flatbread with a snappy vinegar-based pepper sauce. And beer!
We woke to a dripping hot and humid Missouri morning. Pretty much got on our way without delay, fueled by snacks.
Limestone bluffs with rich vegetation accompany much of the KATY Trail
This segment of the Katy trail gets a lot of use with walkers, runners, and cyclists. Sadly, a section of about two miles entering St Charles has thick, larger gravel and other material dumped on it, so-as to be almost unridable. This is the only such section we encountered in our 200 plus miles on the trail. We bypassed much of the mess by jumping over to the bottom road, which has an excellent, wide shoulder through this section.
Once we arrived in St Charles we found really good coffee and bakery items from a very nice person at Bike Stop Bakery.
As a storm front arrived overhead, Colin quickly purchased some jelly on our way out of town towards the Grafton Ferry. The picnic for which this jelly, peanut butter, and fresh bread was envisioned would never happen, as we raced through pouring rain (which felt GREAT) to the ferry about 10 miles into the countryside.
On the Illinois side of the ferry we were greeted by my brothers and sisters and in-laws John, Nancy, John and Marty. We moved immediately to a nearby place for a nice lunch together.
As we left, a storm had redeveloped on top of us, this time with lightning.
Against better judgment we took off towards Alton on the Great River Road as the storm persisted, with an assertive wind to our backs.
As I reach the turn off of the main road, and the skies cleared momentarily, I realized that Steve and Colin were nowhere to be seen, and mobile phone service (and local power) in the area was down.
A man in a pickup truck parked nearby noticed me at the side of the highway and had me climb in to the dry and more lightning-safe truck cab while I pondered the status of my friends.
History repeats itself and, of course, Steve had a flat tire in the storm. With Colin’s help this was fixed as quickly as possible, and then they managed to navigate to points unknown via a temperamental bike computer touch screen through intense cloudbursts.
Phone service came back just as Steve and Colin found me at the intersection in the helpful stranger’s truck. I thanked the man and the three took off again in the downpour.
After one very steep hill, which felt more like biking up a river at times, we arrived to an open garage with John waiting with soft, dry towels. This made the whole experience more like an exclusive adventure tour.
The day wound down peacefully, over home made soup and sandwiches. We were so lucky to have awarm dry place to rest so we start out Saturday clean and rested, and with a few new accessories installed on my bike.
The Katy Roundhouse Campground where we spent the night was well maintained, though the bugs were thick. We departed as quickly as possible, deciding to have breakfast up the trail 10 miles or so.
Along the path in Franklin we found the authentic and impressive Conestoga wagon on display.
After tasty and generously portioned meals at the Meriwether Cafe and Bike Shop we resume our travel, at this point generally along the Missouri River. This river has grown considerably since we road along it at the headwaters in Montana.
No sooner had breakfast began to settle when we came upon the trailside Cooper’s Landing Riverside Resort, Marina & Brewery. This must be the place and time for our celebratory Welcome To Missouri Beer. Though they were not brewing on premises, they did have local IPA , and a gentle beer for Colin. This was a great supplement to our breakfast – though it should be noted that beer is not just a breakfast food.
Later on down the path, we return to our familiar comfort food of bananas and peanut butter in tortillas for lunch. Not exciting, but highly effective as the regional heat wave continues to affect our ride.
Seemingly unaffected by the heat, this little guy takes a walk on the trail.
Daytime highs are expected to be about 95F for many days and the humidity really adds to the effect on the body. It seems the duration of this weather pattern keeps being extended. We’re managing it well so far.
Accordingly, we adjust our travel a bit, and we settle in at the Turner Katy Trail Shelter. This is a former general store and a former church. It is now an air conditioned shelter exclusively for hikers and bikers of the Katy Trail. The three of us are the only ones occupying the shelter this evening, so it is a very tranquil and restful escape from the heat.
This was this first time we rested for two consecutive days. The plan is to resume our eastward progress tomorrow (Sunday).
We visited more local towns in the Gardener area, made a few refinements in our bicycle configurations, and enjoyed BBQ and home made ice cream from Ken, our gracious host.
Eggs, Vanilla, and other secret stuff
As a partial thanks for this hospitality, Colin mowed a small section of Ken’s very large yard, and perhaps discovered a new career in the process.
I enjoyed a visit from an old friend in the area, Rich. Rich is helping to capture and create an archive of our amazing journey.
The outdoor temperatures are expected to start to moderate tomorrow, so we expect to hit the roads and trails once again bright and early.
Today we experienced the magnificence of the Chief Standing Bear Trail and Blue River Trail. These are great examples of what communities can accomplish and create for locals, and dor visitors like us.
Kansas!
There was beauty around every turn, and the riding surface was so nice.
Today was also a three-flat-tire day. This was not so good for getting lots of miles covered, as might otherwise have been possible with the reasonable tail wind.
We did make some surprise progress at the end of the day. After starting to settle in at Marysville, Kansas we decided to pack up and move on to Blue Rapids upon receiving a friendly and inviting call-back from a gentleman with the city of Blue Rapids.
